Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc qoute

If you enjoy Rvs you already know that a major part of the fun with Rving is getting away from everything. You can just pack up the Rv and head out to get some well deserved rest and free time without having to deal with the hassles of day-to-day living. These restful, relaxing, memory production Rv trips should not be jeopardized by something as simple as a 12-volt electrical question ruining your vacation.

If you've been Rving for any number of time you are already aware that a good quantum of the devices and accessories in your Rv control off of 12-volt Dc power. 12-volt Dc or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the Rv batteries. Dc electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-Vdc electricity is stored in the Rv batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that control off of 12-volts.

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These 12-volt devices comprise overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, Lp gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt Tvs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the Lp gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to control properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc qoute

For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.

I am convinced that just about any person is capable of troubleshooting a 12-Vdc problem, and in many cases repairing the question without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a concentrate of simple tools to support you in troubleshooting your Rv's 12-volt electrical system.

1). An uncostly 12-volt test light.

2). A multi-meter that can test for Dc power.

Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, assorted size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.

Now, try to decree the last time the water pump no ifs ands or buts worked. Did you leave the Rv for a duration of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or nearby something else that could have affected the execution of the water pump? Try to think of all potential scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.

If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged adequate to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a concentrate of ways to achieve a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the condition of the coach batteries. To get an correct reading make sure the Rv is not plugged into electricity and turn on a concentrate of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the Rv is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more correct method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-Vdc and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the certain test probe on the certain battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50% state of payment and will need to be charged.

If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the Rv are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the Rv you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. decree which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are regularly labeled) and find a favorable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the permissible size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the permissible size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's potential for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.

If you unblemished all of these tests and there is 12-volt Dc power advent to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical question in your Rv is not that difficult. Consequent the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can decree where the question is. It might be potential for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the Rv dealership too.

Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your Rv to a reputable mend town to have it checked out and repaired

Happy Camping!

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv education 101

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc qoute

galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't

This story begins when I offered to haul my friend's Aerostar van for him. He lives at the top of a very steep gravel hill.

We drove the van on the trailer, strapped it down tight, set the weight distributing hitch and I headed down the hill. It was all going well until I hit the brakes.

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Basically there were none. Only the fronts on the Suburban were locking. I pushed the big red button on my home made trailer brake controller giving them the full 13.7 volts but nothing. Well almost nothing. I was still going down way faster than I wanted to!

galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't

The trailer brakes should have locked up solid when the red button is pushed development everything at least slide straight - instead of the trailer trying to pass the Suburban. Talk about the cart before the horse!

The way the load was pushing colse to that Suburban, I was authentically glad I had not tried to tow with my itsybitsy Jeep Cherokee.

Once that job was done I backed the trailer into the shop to take my first look at those trailer brakes. I have owned this trailer for nearly twenty five years and I have never seen inside the brake drums on it. I guess it was about time.

My inspection of the first drum showed me a itsybitsy about how electric trailer brakes work. There is an electromagnet that pulls against the inside of the drum. The conflict of the magnet against the drum moves one shoe that in turn moves the other shoe with a cam action.

Pretty simple. But I did not see anyone wrong. The shoes looked fine, the drum was fine except for some scoring where the magnet rubbed. I put power to the magnet and it seemed to pull Ok. But, the conflict of the magnet against the drum was obviously not enough to work the shoes.

I could not figure out how a magnet could go bad, but that is what it seemed. Time for some Internet research.

I at last found a site that said magnet failure was base on electric trailer brakes. So I went shopping for trailer brake magnets. Most places wanted more for the magnet than I could buy the whole backing assembly for. To get one at a local parts store I would have to pay more than I could buy two backing assemblies for. And new magnets are included in the backing plate assemblies.

Just when I was about to give up and order new assemblies, I stumbled upon Auto safety House. They could use some work on their web site, but they have great prices.

I found a pair of new drums on e bay and I was the only someone who bid so I got both for the price of one. Then the wait for Danny - my Ups driver - to bring them to me. naturally the drums and magnets arrived on separate days so he got to visit with my dog Smash twice.

Upon closer inspection of the trailer brakes, I noticed that I still did not understand how they worked. Something just did not look right about the way the cams worked. It sure looked like they would be stronger in reverse. And this trailer has all the time been tough to back up when the brakes are working right.

A quick look at the Dexter Brakes web site confirmed my suspicions. The rear axle on my trailer was installed backwards.

I decided the bearings did not authentically care if they were spinning backwards, so I elected to naturally swap the brake assemblies left to right.

Having them off made installing the magnets and routing the not so itsybitsy green wires somewhat easier. I found that some lubricant made getting them through the grommets a lot easier.

Dexter Magnets are identified by the wire color. The precise one for my 3500lb axles is the green wire. Nice they have not changed that in 25 years.

The magnets are held in by spring clips that are authentically hard to get off. I used a small screwdriver and a pry bar and bent them slightly to get them off. The new magnets came with new clips anyway.

I loaded the new bearings with axle grease and installed the new brake drums. They are not Dexter brand but the fit just fine.

The wiring is was pretty simple to reconnect since there is no polarity on the magnets. Just connect one wire to the brake controller power lead and one to ground. Dexter recommends running a isolate ground wire but I just grounded it to the trailer frame like it had been done before.

Now my trailer has brakes again.

galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't